Fiat Manuals is powered by and 3.1.4. Disclosure: has financial relationships with some affiliate links to products,services mentioned here,which enables us to offset the cost of maintenance and to keep this site free for everyone to use. May receive the commission if consumers choose to use some of the links located throughout the content on this site and generate sales for the said links.We thank you for supporting this site. All manufacturers logos,and marques,all other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
Does not store or upload any files on its server. It just links to files (like Google) which is available on the internet.
Car enthusiasts are always happy to ascribe personalities to the cars of a certain country. Therefore German cars are durable and efficient, American cars are tough, while Japanese cars are technically excellent.
In keeping with this vehicular stereotyping, Italian vehicles are stylish and passionate. This is very much the impression people have about Fiat, one of the most famous car manufacturers to hail from Italy. With strong presence in the mid- and higher range of the auto industry, Fiat is a name known by everyone who knows anything about cars. Although Italian cars have a reputation for temperament which matches their personality, it would be unfair to level that criticism at the Fiat brand – their cars are generally very reliable. That is not to say that you’ll never have a problem driving a Fiat, and it is always good practice to have a service manual tucked away in the glove compartment of your car just in case.
A repair guide will increase your level of confidence when taking long journeys and will allow you to identify any faults in good time to get them fixed. Where Can I find a Fiat Service Manual? Although many people prefer a bound hard copy of a service manual, it makes good sense to download a free copy from this site and simply print it off. The major advantage of doing it this way is that you will be able to print off more than one and replace any you lose (or any that get dirty when you carry out repairs).
I have a problem that appears occaseonally: during start (mostly) but soetimes later as well, Punto classic dynamic a-c (2009) operates as it has three or two pistons. In FIAT officional service Auto-MIG, Niš, Serbia, I was told that Iis ECU problem. As an electronic engineer I doubt that because electronics can operate or not. It cannot explore missfunction occensually. I susspect in bad connections, cables or sensors. Nevertheless the diagnosis is P0351. What it could be!?.
JOHN JONES Jul 04, 2015 07:08.
I have a 1994 Uno 1100 Fire (1108cc I thinks), was assembled here in South Africa by Nissan. The carburettor resembles the Weber 32 TFL as featured in the supplement section of the Haynes manual (page 13.62). On the side of the carb it says 27 TFL 251. I just got some starting troubles all sorted out and some maintenance out of the way and was hoping that perhaps someone out here could help me out with a diagnostic of a problem I have with the idling. It has been doing this since I got it and I just cant seem to figure out why. The symptoms are simple.
When I rev or accelerate and take my foot of the accelerator, it is as if the idling takes longer than what it should to return to normal idle speed (about 3 to 4 seconds).in other word I can rev it slightly and instead of going Woom-Woom! It’l go woo-oooooom kind of slightly continuing to rev on its own a bit. I have had someone sit in the car to pulse the accelerator and watched what the cable and throttle lever does – thought it might get stuck or something, but no, when the pedal is released, the cable relaxes and the throttle lever instantly swings back to rest on the idling screw, yet at this time, the idling is still slowly declining and is not instant like with other cars I have had.
When I step down on the accelerator, it responds instantly but when I take my foot off of the accelerator, it takes a bit of time to come down to normal. This is kind of annoying and even when changing gears, I can hear that the revs are still high when I change although my foot is off from the accelerator pedal. It takes about 3 to 4 seconds to slowly decrease all the way to idle speed. The timing is set to 10 degrees BTDC as per Haynes manual and I have even fiddled with the mixture screw to no avail. Come to think of it, on page 13.13 Haynes manual, there are 3 different timing settings depending on what distributor it has, currently mine is set to 10 degrees, could this possibly be wrong, how do I identify my distributor? My idle screw is currently set to its max, i.e.
Screwing it out more will not make the car idle slower as the throttle lever does not move further. Is there someone out there who knows why this is happening and who could point me into the right direction to solve the symptoms.
The mechanics down here, well, let’s just say that calling them sharks would be closer to a compliment, it really is bad and I have been taken on some very expensive “rides” with them lately. Warm regards. The 27 TFL (or TLF) carb doesnt seem to exist! The 500 uses a 26mm carb, the 704cc 126 uses a 30mm, so trying to make a 1108 run with something that small is going to be rediculously restrictive.
You really need to find the proper 32 TLF & check you have the right inlet on there too. They only made the TLF with a 32mm choke & they were fitted on some of the small VW`s & Vauxhall/Opels, so you should be able to find one. The other make ones have alot of detail differences, so you will probably have to do some of modifying. I have a 1994 Uno 1100 Fire (1108cc I thinks), was assembled here in South Africa by Nissan. The carburettor resembles the Weber 32 TFL as featured in the supplement section of the Haynes manual (page 13.62). On the side of the carb it says 27 TFL 251. I just got some starting troubles all sorted out and some maintenance out of the way and was hoping that perhaps someone out here could help me out with a diagnostic of a problem I have with the idling.
It has been doing this since I got it and I just cant seem to figure out why. The symptoms are simple. When I rev or accelerate and take my foot of the accelerator, it is as if the idling takes longer than what it should to return to normal idle speed (about 3 to 4 seconds).in other word I can rev it slightly and instead of going Woom-Woom! It’l go woo-oooooom kind of slightly continuing to rev on its own a bit. I have had someone sit in the car to pulse the accelerator and watched what the cable and throttle lever does – thought it might get stuck or something, but no, when the pedal is released, the cable relaxes and the throttle lever instantly swings back to rest on the idling screw, yet at this time, the idling is still slowly declining and is not instant like with other cars I have had.
When I step down on the accelerator, it responds instantly but when I take my foot off of the accelerator, it takes a bit of time to come down to normal. This is kind of annoying and even when changing gears, I can hear that the revs are still high when I change although my foot is off from the accelerator pedal. It takes about 3 to 4 seconds to slowly decrease all the way to idle speed. The timing is set to 10 degrees BTDC as per Haynes manual and I have even fiddled with the mixture screw to no avail. Come to think of it, on page 13.13 Haynes manual, there are 3 different timing settings depending on what distributor it has, currently mine is set to 10 degrees, could this possibly be wrong, how do I identify my distributor? My idle screw is currently set to its max, i.e.
Screwing it out more will not make the car idle slower as the throttle lever does not move further. Is there someone out there who knows why this is happening and who could point me into the right direction to solve the symptoms. The mechanics down here, well, let’s just say that calling them sharks would be closer to a compliment, it really is bad and I have been taken on some very expensive “rides” with them lately.
Warm regards. Hi there, I just had to get the mechanic to fetch the car again, forgot to take the pictures – sorry It did not want to start and when it does, it idles very fast. Before I called him again, I just checked the timing with my strobe light and it was completely off the scale on the advance side, could not see the mark at all. The mec who worked on it told me it was set to 10 degrees. Also when I loosen the two nuts that holds the distributor, when I get it closer to 10 degrees, it is as if the distributor gets stuck and I have to move it with great strength, it is just in the 10 degree position more or less, above and below that, it glides easily, could this be some clue? Also when set to 10 degrees, the starting problem gets worse, it kind of fires but then cuts out. The /crank timing alignment is as close to spot on as possible, the belt has about 20,000km behind it, not sure how to detect if it is messed up or not, it has square teeth and they seem fine, tension to, I would probably only know for sure if I compared it to a new one I suppose.
Carlos santana greatest hits. You see, last week, the car had difficulty indeling and kept on cutting out, then starting up difficult until a few minutes later, then it did not want to start at all anymore. When I turned the key, the engine spun over two or three times at regular speed and then thereafter with what seemed to be great difficulty, like it had resistance from somewhere.I could not get it going and eventually they sent the tow-in service to fetch it. Got it back yesterday, but I noticed it was idling much faster than usual.the mec said there was water in the distributor.not sure how it got there as the only water that ever got near that part was when the same mec washed the engine with compressed water the previous week after replacing a slave clutch cylinder and the car then did not want to start.
Eventually it turned out the ignition module situated on the distributor was blown. He refused to take responsibility for the damage and said water could not harm it. Logic tells me that it could be so, but if power is switched on and it is still wet, there could be a short etc.
There was definitely not water in the distributor cap as far as i know as I replaced it with a brand new one when I could not get the car to start as the old one was pretty worn down already and due for replacement anyway. When I set it to 10 degrees, the car battles to start again.how on earth could this be possible? And why does it feel like the distributor gets stuck when I turn it closer to this particular position? This guy has really delivered extremely bad service and I honestly do not know who else to turn to anymore, everyone seems out to take the cash and do half work and charge again to complete the next half, or simply just damage more stuff. Since i got it back the first time after having the slave clutch cylinder replaced, from time to time it does not allow me to change gears, I can force them but that would then grind the gears.I then have to pump the clutch a couple of times before it allows me smooth shifting again.on my own I have tried to bleed the system and found some pretty big air bubbles in the fluid coming out through the fish tank piping I attached.
Hereafter it seemed a lot better but this morning it started to get worse again. I checked the separate break fluid reservoir for the clutch and it definitely have dropped about 1cm since last week.logic tells me there is a leak somewhere, strangely enough, the same reason the mec said he had to replace the cylinder in the first place. I don’t know anymore, I really feel cheated and have no confidence in the people anymore and not in the car either. Please if there is anybody out there who could answer any of these questions or shed light on any of these matters, please help me!
Kind regards. Yes it is so, if the diaphram has split, you will be drawing air through the distibutor, up the vaccum pipe to the inleat, resulting in a weak mixture (assuming your mechanic connected the vaccum hose back up behind the carb. If it has gone, you can put a tight fitting blunt screw or bolt in the end of the pipe to seal it & then adjust the timing till it doesnt `pink` under load.
When you find a replacement vaccum advance unit, make sure you reset the timing properly (with the vaccum disconnected). As far as the spray things concerned, it sounds like you may well have an air leak on the carb or inlet which will make it run even leaner, or possibly a split/damaged/loose accelerator pump or maybe the small anti stall pipe is damaged or disconnected. Since i got it back the first time after having the slave clutch cylinder replaced, from time to time it does not allow me to change gears, I can force them but that would then grind the gears.I then have to pump the clutch a couple of times before it allows me smooth shifting again.on my own I have tried to bleed the system and found some pretty big air bubbles in the fluid coming out through the fish tank piping I attached.
Hereafter it seemed a lot better but this morning it started to get worse again. I checked the separate break fluid reservoir for the clutch and it definitely have dropped about 1cm since last week.logic tells me there is a leak somewhere, strangely enough, the same reason the mec said he had to replace the cylinder in the first place. Membuat keygen dengan delphi. A73UK Thank you kindly for your confirmations and the tip with the vacuum pipe. Just to be clear, I will block the vacuum pipe leading back to the carb and leave the vacuum pump itself unblocked?
![]()
Also, how would this be fixed, do I need to replace that whole pump or just a part inside it? If I managed to find one at a scrapyard, with it not begin installed or anything, will I be able to take my piece of pipe with and do a similar test on the replacement (without it being attached to a distributor and all.)? Thank you very much for your reply, I was so depressed yesterday about the state of things, but have taken on this project with renewed enthusiasm and with the help of total strangers from all over the world I seem to be making a lot more progress than the mechanics did in all this time and after all the money spent. Warm regards. Yes it is so, if the diaphram has split, you will be drawing air through the distibutor, up the vaccum pipe to the inleat, resulting in a weak mixture (assuming your mechanic connected the vaccum hose back up behind the carb.Hi there A73UK, Just a side note of something I have noticed.
You know the little air mixture screw which we are not supposed to fiddle with and which is kind of sealed at the factory.well turning it any amount has absolutely no effect on the idling at all, it used to though, long ago. Perhaps this is also a confirmation that a lot of air is being sucked into the carb, so much so that this little adjustment screw has no effect anymore? Yes, you can leave that end disconnected, air getting into the dizzy wont cause any running issues, the problem is the air getting sucked the other way, to the inlet causing it to run weak. You have to change the whole vacuum advance unit as its a sealed unit that you cant dismantle. It can be done in situ.
To remove it you undo the 2 screws (usually tight, so use a screwdriver that fits properly & use alot of pressure to stop it slipping & damaging the screw head), then inside is a plastic ball ended bar, you remove this with a wide flat headed screwdriver rotated between it & the ball joint on the advance plate. Refitting the new one is the reverse, but press the advance plate from the cap side with a flat head screwdriver to stop it getting distorted. It is fiddly getting the socket back on the ball, but you`ll get there in the end. Now all you have to do is find one.
In the UK, the cheapest place was Ricambio at around £30 for a new one. What part of the world are you in by the way? A73UK Thank you kindly for your confirmations and the tip with the vacuum pipe. Just to be clear, I will block the vacuum pipe leading back to the carb and leave the vacuum pump itself unblocked? Also, how would this be fixed, do I need to replace that whole pump or just a part inside it? If I managed to find one at a scrapyard, with it not begin installed or anything, will I be able to take my piece of pipe with and do a similar test on the replacement (without it being attached to a distributor and all.)? Thank you very much for your reply, I was so depressed yesterday about the state of things, but have taken on this project with renewed enthusiasm and with the help of total strangers from all over the world I seem to be making a lot more progress than the mechanics did in all this time and after all the money spent.
Warm regards. Hi all, Just been to the local generic part dealer to enquire about a price on the Vacuum Pump. They said no-can-do and referred me to a scrap yard and also mumbled the dreaded “A” word A for Agents. Will wonder off to the scrap yards tomorrow rather. In the mean time, I plugged the vacuum pipe solid and secured it with a cable tie out of the way, took it for a test drive and low and behold, the idling is almost normal. It definitely did not rev up high anymore, just now and then a slight attempt which is abandoned almost instantly. I am suspecting that this last small kink is due to the other leak I discovered more or less on the right hand side of the carb.
Fiat Uno Fire
Will try to find it tomorrow weather permitting. In essense then my idling problem has been solved. It is also more responsive and comes down to regular idling speed faster than before. So a big yes check mark next to Problem #3. Problem #2 remains solved, no missing when I rev it or drive super fast at 100km/h in fourth gear etc.
So another big yes check mark next to Problem #2. This now only leaves me with Problem #1, it completely cuts out from time to time and starts back up due to the forward momentum of the car, like a running start kind of thing. I am still suspecting electrical, but not sure. The HT lead from the coil is dodgy and I will try to replace it first thing tomorrow morning. It has no trouble starting after cutting out or under any other condition and fires first time round every time.
Could it be the coil? Is it possible for a coil to intermittently fail, or would it simply fail one shot permanently? If someone could perhaps suggest a few other options I could check out, I would greatly appreciate it.
Fiat Uno Fire 1100 Bonnet
We almost have this thing beaten. A huge thanks so far to Y73UK and to Barney for faxing me the updated info and specs, my Haynes is definitely out of date and I am sure it will become very useful when I need to get that leak fixed on the carb. Warm regards, PS: I bled the clutch once more as a good as I could and it did not give any hassles so far today, touch wood!!! Going to thoroughly check all connections on the pipes tomorrow. Just got round to inspecting the master cylinder and there were no leaks anywhere near it, also at the slave cylinder, it is dry, could just be a faulty new slave perhaps. I will later post another suspicion I have about this problem but I do not want to get on the wrong side of the “Law of Attraction” at this point in time.
Comments are closed.
|
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |